Thursday, 12 September 2013

Buildings workshop (Part 1)

I have been working on some buildings for my bolt action gaming boards to replace the rather odd selection I currently use.
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These buildings came after some trial and error in adding buildings to my Hexboard Project, which has attracted some local interest, but I have yet to refine to a point where I would be willing to put it on the market.

Building 1


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A fairly simple two storey house. Parts of the dimensions (particularly the window sizes) come from Matakishi's designs. I actually built a few houses according to his templates, but I found them ridiculously small and they have now found there way into a bits box.



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The finishing details change between each of the houses in this set, mostly because I couldn't settle on a good way of doing them that was time efficient.

Building 2



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Superficially the same as building one, but with rooms in the attic.



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All of the buildings split into their individual floors so that models can be placed inside rather than having the models placed off board (and the confusion that often results).

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This building has 'stone' arches and no shutters, personally I find this my least favourite detailing. The roof tiles on the dormers also annoys me.

Building 3




This is the first building with a basement. It adds a little more complexity to the build and even more complexity in game play; what do you count at the 'ground floor' for entering the building, can people really climb through those tiny windows in the basement?



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The detailing on this is a real muddle. I decided the basement windows were too small for shutters, but the ground floor has standard shutters and the 1st floor has shutters with extra detail. All arches have a keystone. I find this the best detailing, but it also takes the most time

In-Hex pictures


You may have been wondering why the ground level of each of my houses was two cm above the bottom of the building. Well my game board hexes have precut slots for the buildings, demonstrated here with the basement of Building 3:


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The next floor then slots on top:


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Each floor can fit 12 models on 25mm bases without any overlap, admittedly I didn't design the buildings with Japanese players in mind:


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The Buildings are all to the same floor plan, so I can stack as many floors as I like in a single Hotel:




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And use the leftovers to make some Bungalows:

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Please leave me some feedback, especially let me know which detailing worked best.

~ Bob

Friday, 16 August 2013

Late War British

Not much spiel, many pictures

My main opponent gave up waiting for the Perry Brothers Africa Korps (now confirmed for October, excellent timing, go figure). So we switched to late war Normandy, specifically the Battle for Caen so he could feed his Wittmann and 'Panzer'Meyer fixations.

So my Desert Rats have gone into hiding till I can find a good use for them.

Warlord Late War British infantry. Supposedly 25 in a box, I got 30 plus an apology from Warlord because of the absence of water-slide transfers.




The Desert Rats are about the same height as the Warlord models, but far skinnier
 

First Platoon



Veteran: 1st Lieutenant, Additional man: 103
Veteran: 5 Infantry, NCO and one other soldier with SMG: 71
Veteran: 5 Infantry, with LMG: 85
Regular: PIAT: 40
Regular: M4 Sherman: 195






 

Second Platoon 



Veteran: 1st Lieutenant: 90
Regular: Artillery observer: Free
Veteran: 5 Infantry, NCO and one other soldier with SMG: 71
Veteran: 5 Infantry, with LMG: 85
Regular: Light Mortar Team: 35
Regular: M4 Sherman, HMG: 220






The Shermans are both plastic Hobby Boss 1/48, nice and cheap at £10 each. Some bits will change now I have the 'Armies of' book. The whole army took 3 days to paint, I'm a lazy painter.


~Bob

Thursday, 18 July 2013

Hanomag variants - a spotters guide

When I first looked at the Flames of War books I was occasionally concerned by the way some of the lists specified the exacly ausf or model/variant of halftrack the troops should be transported in. After picking up some of PSC's 251/1 ausf D's I realised that for the mid war period I was aiming for the vehicles were rather late. So I have picked up a bunch of earlier versions of the well know hanomag and resolved to produce a spotters guide for the uninitiated.


 From left to right; ausf A, ausf B, ausf C, ausf D.


The ausf A and ausf B are both converted from Zvezda's ausf A model (the box inaccurately calls it an ausf B), the hideous Zvezda machine guns being replaced with spares from the PSC sets. The ausf C and D are both straight out of the box PSC models. All are depicted in post 1942 style camouflage to make it easier to discern the differences between the models. The two earliest models had been out of production for some time before this camouflage was adopted.

Sd.kfz 251/1 ausf. A

 


The first variant of the 251. Prototyping for an 3 ton unarmoured halftrack had started in 1934, with the concept of using the same chassis as an armoured carrier added to the requirements a year later. It wasn't until June 1939, only two months before the Invasion of Poland, that they were first issued to units. This variant was only produced in small numbers and was discontinued in 1940.


Sd.kfz 251/1 ausf. B

 


The second variant of the 251. Little has changed from the first version, only minor evolutionary upgrades resulting from early feedback. The variant began production in 1939, only shortly after the ausf A, and was likewise discontinued in 1940.


 Changes from ausf. a to ausf. b

1: The ausf B introduced a shield for the machine gunner, replacing the more flexible mounting. Many ausf A vehicles were upgraded to the ausf B's new mounting system.

2: The more important change was the removal of vision slots from the passenger compartments and the repositioning of vehicle tool sets to the mudguards.


Sd.kfz 251/1 ausf. C



The third variant shows the first structural modifications aimed at reducing production costs, and was also the first to see large scale production. It came into service in mid 1940 after the conquest of France, and continued in production until September 1943.


 Changes from ausf. b to ausf. c

1: The first major noticed is the simplification of the front armour from two plate to a single plate

2: The cooling flaps were replaced with vent covers which allowed for better engine cooling

3: Another minor change was the repositioning of the storage lockers further to the rear.

Sd.kfz 251/1 ausf. D



The final variant began leaving factories in 1943 and was the simplest to build and most produced. The total production of all earlier ausf.s combined was a bare 4,650 vehicles, compared to 10,602 ausf D's. While production technically ended with the fall of Germany, the Praga and Tatra factories of Czechoslovakia continued production of the vehicle until 1963. These were designated as the OT-810 and may have be retrofitted by WWII re-enactment groups .


 Changes from ausf. c to ausf. d

1: A follow from the simplification of the front plate seen in the change between the ausf B and ausf C. The rear armour drops from 6 armour planes and a complex hinging system to a single flat plate.

2: The stowage boxes and mudguards merge into a single piece integral to the hull.


Please let me know of any inaccuracies in my guide, I am not an expert and am always hunting for more information. Much of my data has come from websites such as WWII Vehicles.com.

 ~Bob

Thursday, 4 July 2013

Perry Miniatures - Desert Rats (Part 1)

The Perry Brothers first foray into WWII plastics, it has been a long time since the metal WWII models they sculpted for Wargames Foundry, and several years since their first plastic kits.




This set provides a "Platoon in a box", the instruction leaflet even shows the platoon organisation of the period that this box can achieve:

Three 10 man sections with one Bren gun and one Thompson SMG each,
One 2" light mortar team
One Boys anti-tank rifle team
And a command section with lieutenant, radio operator and platoon sergeant

 There is even one spare man to add where you like.


Infantry sprue (Front) 

 

There are three identical infantry sprues each with 12 men; 7 standing, 3 kneeling, and 2 prone as a weapons team. Helmets are seperate from the heads to reduce undercuts, but there are no alternative hats accept the LRDG/SAS heads which require you to remove the head  from the body.

The Afrika Korps box (hopefully out later this year) will have a variety of hats, but in the British case the separate heads mainly allow better moulding techniques.

Infantry sprue (Back) 

 

 
Each of the three infantry sprues come with a 2" mortar, a boys anti tank rifle and 2 bren guns with the minor issue that nearly all are designed to fit on one of the prone bodies with the other prone man serving as loader.

There are also 2 SMGs and lots of rifles on each sprue, plus a bucket load of picks, shovels and bayonets to add to the models.

Command Sprue

 


The command sprue has the radio operator and officer, with an option of SMG, pistol or rifle. The officer has a choice of helmet or cap, finally making use of the separate head system.

Bases

 

The bases were a bit of an odd choice for the Perry brothers.

20mm round bases for the infantry (left), which are rather small compared with the bolt action standard 25mm (right). Being thinner than warlord's semi heroic faire the Perry models look better on the small bases, but the difference still niggles me.   

 The weapon team bases annoy me even more.

40mm square bases!?! I hate mixing square and round bases in a game, it feels wrong. So I made my own 50mm round bases with a 20mm cut out so the loader can come off for casualty purposes.

Armour Support

 

I even Picked up a Tamiya Matilda to go with the army, though looking at warlords rules for it I'm rather sceptical as to it's utility.



But at least the scale doesn't seem too far off.


I will do a proper review with scale comparisons once I have finished painting them.

~Bob
  

Sunday, 9 June 2013

Painted: Bolt Action Armour


It took me ages to get these finished. A month ago the Wirbelwind and Panzer III had the camouflage base coats painted on, but I was waiting for the puma before finishing them as the wash is time consuming.

The painting the Puma was more of a chore than it had to be, the primer kept flaking off! Vallejo spray paints are useless, even in perfect weather the paint would come off with even the gentlest of touches. Short verson  Vallejo - Good paints - Bad primers.

The Flakpanzer IV "Wirbelwind"



The "Yankmower" to my mind, a tribute to the American M45 Quadmount a.k.a "Krautmower". This beast chops through infantry squad in Bolt Action. Four light auto cannons means 8 shots, which can be further increased by firing HE rounds, and that is before adding the shots for the hull MMG. All protected by mid range tank armour.


This does come at a price however, using up a quarter of the points available in a standard game. In addition is uses up the Tank slot in the organisation chart, which means looking for anti tank solutions elsewhere.

 Panzer III Ausf. L



I picked this model up many years before I had heard of Bolt Action. I'm not sure if it was intended to be converted for use in a 40k army or whether I intended to write my own set of rules for 1/48 WW2 gaming. 


The Panzer III was retired from service before for Normandy, but the late war colour scheme was intended to match the rest of my force. This probably restricts its accuracy to a narrow period of the Eastern front; from mid 1943 to early 1944. In the game it is a fairly average medium tank, almost the exact equivalent of a Sherman, but without the special rules.

SdKfz 234/2 "Puma" 


The anti-tank solution for the Wirbelwind problem. Same average capability gun as the Panzer III on a lighter armoured, faster chassis. Though not as weakly protected as most armoured cars of the game it is not as impervious as a medium tank.

 

Its main strength comes from the Reece ability, when shot at it can reverse 12" before the shot is resolved, hopefully putting it behind cover or even out of range. The paint caking remains are annoyingly evident round the engine vents.
 

Something that has been very plesant about painting WW2 vehicles is the decals. In 40k decals tend to be rather superfluous and often have to fix to rounded surfaces. On these vehicle they add a crucial level of detail otherwise lacking.

More soon,

~ Bob